Coast-to-Coast project | The Feeling of a Surfer

There’s a saying that goes like this…

‘Only a surfer knows the feeling’

I’ve got a trusty old surfboard, shaped by a New Zealand friend called Greg, who used to live in Cornwall. My first ‘made to measure’ possession, back in the day when our local Friday night pub was a three-hour drive deep into the wild southwest of Kernow. Just in time for last orders at the bar and in perfect time for a ‘dawnie surf session the next day.  Before family, before children and responsibilities and before pandemic restrictions. This beloved surfboard has seen some dings and bashes over the decades and even though it has unlikely been ridden at Olympian standards, it is mine and now shared with my daughter.

You see, she’s gone and got the surf bug.

Just a few years ago and between lockdowns last year, I’ve got to relive a part of those halcyon surfing days. As we checked the conditions and headed to our local break, to relive that catch-your-breath ocean scent as you paddled out over the waves and to the line-up. Inhaling sea spray and wave foam mixed with pure adrenaline. The only time I’ve ever really thought in the moment I’m in, respecting and surviving the power of the sea.  But now these days, wondering whether I’ll actually be able to get to my feet and feel that same exhilaration all over again.

Only I now get to look over and see this same younger-me expression on her face.

I also know that soon, we will go home after a surf day, telling tall ocean tales and fall asleep that night with aching arms, salty and happy.

“The sea does not reward those who are too anxious, too greedy, or too impatient. To dig for treasures shows not only impatience and greed, but lack of faith. Patience, patience, patience, is what the sea teaches. Patience and faith. One should lie empty, open, choiceless as a beach—waiting for a gift from the sea.” Anne Morrow Lindbergh, from A Gift from the Sea.